Hilo! – Part one of our Anniversary Trip to BI

by Rebecca · June 17, 2025

pōmaikaʻi: = blessed

After kicking off our Silver Anniversary celebrations at Haleiwa Joe’s, we continued the fun with an incredible first trip to the Island of Hawai’i (known informally as the Big Island, since all the other islands combined could fit inside it). We landed at Kona but quickly headed over to the Hilo side of the island, choosing the north route so we could pass through the lovely farmlands of Waimea (panolo country).

We stayed one night at a hidden gem called Hilo Reeds Bay Hotel, which despite only being a 2-star hotel, had a charming view! The park next door and the banyan trees hulking over the avenue were also utterly delightful.

“Peace” of Paradise

We then settled into an incredible Airbnb which had possibly the best oceanfront view anywhere! One side of the lanai extended over crashing waves 100 feet below, the other had gorgeous views of Hilo Bay and surfers gliding on silver waves, the middle framed expansive views of the Pacific waves, where we even watched whales frolicking one afternoon, despite it being late season. The house had louvered windows throughout so we could listen to the call of the ocean (and coqui frogs) whenever we wanted.

I’m not sure I’ve ever seen Troy as relaxed as he was playing guitar on the lanai of this beautiful place.

No restaurant could compete with these views, so we loaded up on poke, fruit, coffee and dips from the Maku’u Farmer’s Market in Puhoa and Foodland and ate in every meal!

Maku’u Farmer’s Market in Puhoa

Akaka Falls

Our Airbnb was very close to Akaka Falls, which is the tallest waterfall in Hawai’i. The flora and fauna in this area are just superb – the real tropical Hawai’i!

Merrie Monarch Treats

By pure coincidence, our visit to Hilo happened to overlap with Merrie Monarch (internationally famous Hula Festival). Some of my hula sisters from Still and Moving Center were there, too! We went to the Crafts Fair together, and Troy and I caught a few of the free demonstrations. (It’s very hard to get tickets to the actual festival!)

AND we bought a very special box of mochi treats from the awesome Two Ladies Bakery!

Volcano National Park

The most exciting part of our Hilo stay, though, was Volcano National Park. When we first visited, Kilauea was contentedly steaming away, not feeling very restless. We explored most of the park – walking through the lava tubes and driving all the way down Chain of Craters Road. The landscape is so surreal – the shapes and patterns made by the lava are other-wordly, as are the little alien gardens that spring up here and there. And we even saw a palm-treed oasis in the middle of the devastation!

BUT THEN one morning we woke up, checked the USGS livestream and saw that Kilauea was raging! We jumped in the car, drove 40 minutes and caught a major fountaining episode (about 650′)!!!! By far one of the most amazing experiences of our lives!